Rissani, capital of the Tafilalet, is the place where the reigning Alawite dynasty was born, where Moulay er Rachid started in 1666 his war to conquer Morocco and overthrow the Saadians. The city has remnants of strong walls and palaces, like for example Ksar Aber. Ksar Aber, which was built in the XIX° century, was a place where the kings at the same time protected a part of their treasure, under wards of several hundreds of black soldiers, and exiled disgraced members of the royal family. Or Ksar Oulad Abdelhalim, built at the beginning of the XX° century, with beautiful pieces of original decoration. Zawiya of Moulay-ash-Sharif, founder of the dynasty, is still in a perfect state. But it is still forbidden to non-Muslims, who can only visit the front garden.

Formerly a major caravan centre, Rissani remains an important commercial place in the area, with its huge souq, specially on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Everything can be found there, and water sellers are much kinder than in Marrakech. But gold, ivory and slaves disappeared, and the salt, which was before imported from Mali, has lost its value.

Filali leather, made in Rissani, is known through all Morocco. It is a fine and supple leather, made with goat skins tanned with Tamarisk’s bark .