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M’hamid, where the valley
dies in a « plain of the gazelles » is the last oasis
along the Draa
river, a little administrative centre, and a border post, before
the volcanic Guir Hamada
and the Saharan dunes that starts here, with the Mesouria dunes,
8 km southwards. In M’hamid, the river Drâa goes under
the sand, and continues its way to the Atlantic coast, underground,
to appear again, 800 km westwards, in the rainy years.
Here, you will see “Blue Men”, nomads and camel drivers
of Berber origin, who come to the souq to trade rugs and craftwork
again basic goods like oil, salt and flour. In former times, the
city was a big caravan centre, and you can still visit the ruins
of its Ksar, that reminds its past splendour. Here, in the XVI°
century, Ahmed El Mansour started its raid, and went to conquer
Timbuktu with his warriors, camels, and all his tribe. But the site
is even older, and was occupied in the times when Sahara was not
yet a desert. Near to M’hamid is one of the oldest proto-historic
necropolis of North Africa, Foum-Rjani. It can be reached off-road
only, but its thousands of tombs under tumuli are worth the trip.
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M’hamid itself offers few other attractions,
but the camel tours. It is for example possible to rally Merzouga
in two weeks.
And 45 km southwards lay the huge dunes
of Chigaga |