Respect and Islam

Morocco is traditionally a tolerant country. When the Arabs left Andalusia in 1492 and settled back in Morocco, they took with them all their statesmen, Muslims, but also Jews, and even some Christians. In many cities, a Jewish neighbourhood (mellah) can be found, or Catholic churches. Moroccans have a moderate Islam, and accept strangers without preaching at them – and they expect, in return, that their beliefs and customs are respected in the same way.

Unlike other Muslim countries, not everything stops on Fridays, and the week in Morocco is the same as in Europe. Working times are changed to accommodate Friday prayers. Some monuments, banks and public services close earlier than usual; shops may close early, then open again later in the afternoon. But basically, work is also considered as a prayer, and the people go on taking care of tourists.

That pattern changes totally during the month of Ramadan, which is scrupulously followed by all Moroccans. Every Muslim, except the young, ill or disabled, must fast from sunrise to sunset, and the fasting extends to drink, tobacco and anything else that can be taken in the mouth. That has a big impact on life, and every activity virtually stops a quarter of an hour before sunset, and starts again an hour after breakfast. Working hours are reduced. At the same time, Moroccans go to bed much later than usual, having a second dinner just before bed. They get up an hour before dawn for breakfast and enjoy a good long nap during the day.
Ramadan is a very special time, both slower and more electric than usual during the day and a real celebration every night.
It is also the month for generosity, when nobody should be hungry, poor people are fed, and you’ll certainly be invited to eat breakfast with your guide.
Depending on the areas where you travel, it will be more or less easy to find food during the day. In the small towns in the south, you could be limited to a coffee-shop, where you could be served only an omelette, and left alone, because the Moroccans don’t want to be tempted by your food!
It’s up to you to know whether or not you want to experience the good and bad sides of this special month.
In 2006, Ramadan should start on September 24th (see the Muslim calendar).

Mosques are forbidden to non-Muslims, since French colonisation. The French Protectorate was established after a incident in which Moroccans killed European workers who crossed a Muslim graveyard. Lyautey forbade the entry of religious places to non-Muslims to avoid further problems. Mosques, marabous and zaouïas are therefore closed to you, but you can still have a look through the door. Only Hassan II Mosque can be visited, in the morning and in guided groups. (Also the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl in Meknes, because the same Lyautey once refused to wait at the entrance for a pasha who was going inside to pray). Tips can also open some doors.

A few simple behaviour rules, to avoid shocking or embarrassing people :

• You’ll notice that men and women don’t touch each other in the street. To kiss in public is an offence, even between married couples. On the other hand, same-sex friends often hold hands, or kiss, without that being seen as a sign of homosexuality!
  Using your left hand is taboo, because it is used to wash yourself. Therefore, it is not used in drinking, eating, giving anyone something, or to touch a child.
• Don’t be the first to start a political discussion. If a Moroccan friend asks you about politics, don’t forget that the king is truly respected and loved. He is a religious leader as well as a political one. And the late Mohammed V and Hassan II are also spoken of with high respect. Topics like “Spanish Sahara” are very sensitive, even taboos, when the news doesn’t put them in the spotlight.
• It is common to speak about religion. Not discuss – speak about… It is difficult for a Muslim to grasp the idea of a life without religious belief, or the European concept of secularism. If you’re a believer in one of the religions of the Book, you’ll be invited to convert to Islam, which is, according to the Koran, the highest revelation of Allah. Those who refuse to follow it are thought to burn in Hell, so this offer is a mark of friendship.
• If you’re a woman, you’ll be asked if you’re married. It’s is not impolite or intrusive: marriage is still one of the essential goals for a Moroccan woman, and single life is quite hard for them beyond the age of about 30. As a single woman, you’ll certainly get proposals. A ring that looks like a wedding ring, and some pictures of nephews and nieces can cut short discussions…
  Food, and specially bread, are holy. They are never thrown away, but always given to someone poorer.

Hospitality

Moroccan hospitality is well-known, and if travelling on your own you are very likely to get the opportunity to be invited into someone’s home. It’s an honour for your hosts, which means that refusing could be considered insulting – unless, of course, you have a good reason, like other commitments or a train to catch,… This is also a very interesting opportunity – grab it when you can. The invitation may come quite quickly, after a nice talk with a guide, a taxi driver or a shop-owner. Don’t worry – in most cases, it’s sincerely meant.

When you enter a shop where someone is drinking tea, or when you meet people you know who are already eating, you’ll be invited to share. Don’t refuse – take just a “shouia” (very little). Moroccans consider that God himself put this food before you, and by refusing it you offend him. But it’s possible to have just a small sip or bite, if you don’t want more.
If invited into someone’s home, like nearly everywhere in the world, you should not come with empty hands. Flowers are welcome, as are cakes or gifts for children, but also (especially when your host is not rich) meat, which will immediately be prepared for kebabs. Think of something useful, bring European goodies, or even, if you have any with, honey or coffee, which are difficult to get in Morocco.

On arrival, you’ll be introduced in the large Moroccan living room, furnished with sofas all along the walls, and small tables moved according to need. Remove your shoes before you walk on the carpet! Women may be invited to join the women of the family, often sitting in another room. As a European, you’re not obliged to go, and may stay in the men’s room. Nevertheless, visiting the women is interesting (but European men should definitively not follow you!).
You’ll be served a glass of tea, and many more after, with peanuts, dried fruit, or cakes. But this is just an appetizer before a very rich meal. Then comes the washing. You’ll be presented a basin of water (and don’t forget you eat with your hand…). The same thing will happen at the end of the meal, to wash your hands and rinse your mouth.

So, the right word for the meal is “rich”, and you’ll be prompted to eat as much as you can. The meal starts with an invocation to the grace of God “Bismillah”. When you are totally unable to eat one thing more, you can say with a large smile “safy” or “baraka”, which both means “that’s fine, that’s enough”, always followed by “Hamdullilah” (thanks to the grace of God) – but that should happen only very late in the evening.

According to your guests’ wealth, whether in a riad, in a farm or under the tent, they’ll offer to share with you what they have, and even what they don’t have. One must understand that this is also a part of a wide long-term exchange system, normal in Moroccan society (I do that for him because he will do it for me later on when I need it). As a European, you’re a little out of the system. You’ll often be asked for your address and phone number, and when you give them, it is well understood that your guests will visit you when they come to Europe… or one of their friends will.

Also, be careful about what you promise to do. A commitment is quite strong in Morocco: a “yes” will commit you, while “Inch’Allah” will be taken as a kindly “maybe, maybe not”.

Bargaining

It’s nearly impossible to buy anything in Morocco without bargaining for it. Moroccans discuss prices, ask for a rebate, always find a good reason for paying a little bit less. That’s as normal as it is, in our countries, to pay the displayed price without discussion.

Many tourists don’t feel comfortable playing this game. Halve the first price you’re quoted, then slowly go up… it’s a question of time, and exchange. Take your time to haggle with the seller, appreciate his goods without showing too much interest, compare them with what you’ve seen somewhere else. Show that you know a little bit the prices. Never think that it is cheap compared to Europe.

The game starts when you look at the shop from the street. It becomes serious when you ask for the price. “A good price, for you…” and the seller does his best for you to give him the price you’re willing to pay. Always let him start.
Walking in the souk can be difficult. Everyone will try to tempt you into his shop, and not let you go before you have bought something. It’s up to you to decide how long you want to stay, and then really enjoy this moment.

If you want to buy without haggling, it is possible, in craft cooperatives and centres and shops that display “fixed prices”. These are generally less than you might pay elsewhere – but more than you might if you enjoy haggling.

When you want to buy in the souq, walk a little bit away from the main crowded alleys, the tourist-traps. You’ll find other shops, with as many and as good products, and fewer western customers. With a little luck, you might even find the wholesale dealers, who also sell single items.

When your guide offers to take you into a specific shop, he’ll certainly receive a percentage on your purchases. But you can also make it clear to him that he will get more from you as a tip than this percentage, as long as you’re not harassed by sellers. He will then become your best protection against them.