News from Morocco

We've been quite silent for a long time, busier working with our customers than writing on the blog.

The spring season is now on in Morocco, and it is one of the nicest times to visit the South. From time to time we can get a sandstorm (and there were a few exceptionnaly heavy ones in April), but that usually does not last more than a few hours, and in the open large open plains that lead to Sahara. As soon as you're in the mountains, for example in Dades or Todra gorges, you're protected from these red hot winds.

Speaking of Dades, in a week, you can attend the Roses Moussem in Kelaa M'Gouna. The Roses Festival is supposed to happen at the end of rose's harvest. Actually, it is now fixed by end of March, and its date is not so tightly linked to the harvest. But it remains a mix of folkloric event, touristic attraction and truly local life, a fair for a whole area, the roses Valley, that lives from the cultivation of these flowers imported from Damas by the early Arabs. In May, at time of harvest, the families sell their flowers, and have a plenty of money.

Hence the fair, which is one of the largest souk (market) in the area. In the morning, on the Saturday, a parade with traditionnal groups, sword dance, ahwach and other dances. After the parade, you can feel free to wander in the streets, haggle a scarf, or just admire the bounty offers. Leaving Kelaa, you can wander in the roses garden, and head to Boutarar, or the M'Goun valley, and pursue your trip in southern Morocco.

Cooking at the Roses Festival

Besides tour around the Roses Festival, that we will offer again next year, we supported the making of a cooking TV show that will be broadcasted this summer on French television. Julie Andrieu is well known in France, a little bit like the Naked Chef in England, and makes some shows where she interacts with people. Two weeks in Morocco were necessary to prepare a 52 minutes for this summer. We helped in finding places, people, and original recipies. Like for example, a tajine with roses water, and a special soup made with saffron and argan oil.

Rose Festival in Kelaa M'Gouna

We finally officially know will the Rose Festival (or moussem) take place, in the first week-end of may, from Friday the 4th to Sunday the 6th. At least this is what Tourism Office told us, and I hope this information will be more accurate than the one about Erfoud last summer !

Practically, that means one more "institutionnalized" moussem (or festival). At the beginning, Roses Festival was linked to the harvest, and took place when the latest roses where cut. People could relax and celebrate.
To fix the date so long time in advance means the moussem will happen whatever the state of the harvest.. (Do you know farmers able to tell you three months in advance the exact day they will finish the harvest ?)

On one hand, it is quite logical, for such a touristic event, attracting so many people, it is quite hard to leave tourists and travel agency in the unknown: "you can come for a week and book your plane, but we can't promise you you'll see what you want, and come for."

This moussem was quite officialized already, with sponsors like Maroc Telecom, covering with advertisment boards the walls around the stage where the traditionnal dancing and singing takes place. And officials, all decorated and aligned, in the main stand. A Gouvernor has an agenda as hard to manage as a tourist booking, that cannot bear roses fantasies...

But, after Erfoud, after Imilchil, it is once again a piece of real tradition which fades away, pushed by the demands of tourist development...

Whatever, it is a beautiful time. The key point is undoubtedly on Saturday, with gnawa, ahwach, music,sabre dancing...

Kelaa's streets are covered with people, children are ckimbing on the lamp-posts, and people come from everywhere around to take part and sell something. The moussem is at the same time a huge souq, many people offer a few trinkets on a blanket on the ground. I often found there beautiful berber jewels... and many fake ones.

My advice would be to plan large around. The visit of the roses gardens is better made in the week, before every one is busy with the moussem. One has to loose himself in the small labyrinths, enter the gardens and take time to discuss with the people, that's the best way to enjoy Morocan hospitality.